The pattern and instructions for the mask can be found here.
If you have rotary-cutting tools and need help knowing how to cut out the fabric the fastest and easiest way, there is a tutorial specifically for this project here.
Here's what you're making. A filter (they will provide for themselves) will fit in the pouch, and there is a slot for a wire to fit to the nose (also not our responsibility).
If you have rotary-cutting tools and need help knowing how to cut out the fabric the fastest and easiest way, there is a tutorial specifically for this project here.
Here's what you're making. A filter (they will provide for themselves) will fit in the pouch, and there is a slot for a wire to fit to the nose (also not our responsibility).
Wash the fabric in hot water, dry and iron smooth. If you have yardage, you can fold it in half longitudinally and then again longitudinally so that you have four layers. Be sure that the folds are parallel and crisp.
The easiest way to cut the fabric is using a rotary-cutting equipment: mat, ruler and rotary cutter. If you don't have these, you can make a paper pattern, pin it on the fabric and cut the mask pieces out.
Cut:
2 strips 1 1/2" wide from selvedge to selvedge or at least 36-38" long, which will be trimmed to length later. (I like to cut 4 strips, because when you cut through the four layers, you will have enough of the main mask pieces to make two masks.)
For each mask, you will need 2 rectangles 8 3/4" X 7 1/2". (When you cut through the four layers, you will have enough for 2 masks.)
Press each 1 1/2" strip in half longitudinally. Then press each raw edge of the length in to the middle of the strip. Finally, press the whole piece with the two edges tucked in. (A bias-tape maker or folded-tape maker speeds this up, but you can put two pins in your ironing-board cover, spaced a few inches apart and do the same thing.)
It will look like folded bias tape. These will be the ties. (You could use commercial bias tape, but it will be stretchier, which could result in the stitching breaking, so if you use bias tape, you will need to use a zigzag or other stretchy stitch for the ties.)
Marking the rectangle for pleats:
Note: In the diagram/pattern on the second page of the instructions, the lines are called "Step 1(B) through 2(D)," so we will call each line by those names.
Marking the rectangle for pleats:
Note: In the diagram/pattern on the second page of the instructions, the lines are called "Step 1(B) through 2(D)," so we will call each line by those names.
Take one of the 8 3/4" X 7 1/2" rectangles and, with the right side of the fabric up, draw a line 1/2" in along the narrower edge of the rectangle using a fabric marking pencil. This will be the bottom of the mask, Step 1(B).
Draw another line 1/4" from the bottom raw edge, Step 1(A) (optional).
Then go up to 2 1/4" from the same edge and draw another line, Step 2(D).
Draw another line 1/4" from the bottom raw edge, Step 1(A) (optional).
Then go up to 2 1/4" from the same edge and draw another line, Step 2(D).
Turn the rectangle 180º and measure 3 1/2" from the opposite edge, still on the right side, Step 2(B). (This side will be the top of the mask.) The right side of the rectangle will look then like this:
Now turn the rectangle over as if you were turning a page in a book. On the wrong side of the fabric, draw a line 3 1/4" from the bottom raw edge, Step 2(C). (If you turn a corner of the rectangle over, you should see the two lines 1/4" apart, or one, if you only drew the 1/2" line.)
Rotate the fabric again and still on the wrong side of the fabric, draw a line 2 1/2" down from the top, Step 2(A).
The wrong side of the rectangle should then look like this:
The wrong side of the rectangle should then look like this:
I found it helpful to have a summary, so I wrote this:
RS
1/2"
1/4" (optional)
2 1/4"
Rotate 180º
3 1/2"
Flip (check to make sure you're at the bottom, with the 1/2" marked)
3 1/4"
Rotate 180º
2 1/2"
Repeat for the second rectangle.
If you're making a lot of masks, it may be helpful to mark a lot of them at one time. It's easier to remember the sequence (1/2, 2 1/4, 3 1/2, 3 1/4, 2 1/2).
RS
1/2"
1/4" (optional)
2 1/4"
Rotate 180º
3 1/2"
Flip (check to make sure you're at the bottom, with the 1/2" marked)
3 1/4"
Rotate 180º
2 1/2"
Repeat for the second rectangle.
If you're making a lot of masks, it may be helpful to mark a lot of them at one time. It's easier to remember the sequence (1/2, 2 1/4, 3 1/2, 3 1/4, 2 1/2).
Now to press the folds:
Fold on each line on the right side and press each one thoroughly.
Turn the piece over and do the same with each line on the wrong side. Turn up the bottom raw edge to meet the first line marked and press. Then fold it again on the line and press again. These will be the bottom hems.
Do the same with the second rectangle.
On the right side of fabric and holding the hem closed, stitch 1/8" to a scant 1/4" from the folded bottom edge of each rectangle.
(You can chain piece these to save time, or use a scrap of fabric between steps. That way, you don't have to cut the thread and start again each time.)
(You can chain piece these to save time, or use a scrap of fabric between steps. That way, you don't have to cut the thread and start again each time.)
Pin the folds closed, making adjustments as needed to be sure that each side of the mask will measure 4 1/4".
I made a pressing template for myself. It's a rectangle 7 1/2" X 4 1/4" on a piece of paper. I can put the piece I've just folded on it, and press and pin to those dimensions.
Sew each edge to hold the folds closed using a 1/4" seam. Press.
Pin the rectangles together, right sides together and top raw edges lined up. Sew the two pieces together using a 1/4" seam.
On the right side, press the seam to one side.
Fold the mask with this seam up and the wrong sides together. Mark the wire nose piece slit according to the pattern along the top seam edge, beginning and ending 1 3/4" in from each side and 1/2" deep, leaving 3/4" open for the wire to be inserted. (I like to start at the far left, sew the vertical stitches, backstitching at the beginning, pivoting at the corner and sewing to the mark for the opening, backstitching, then lifting the presser foot and moving to the base of the right-hand end of the slot, inserting the needle again and sewing the other vertical stitches, backstitching at the beginning and end. That leaves a thread you can clip off afterwards.
Fold the mask with this seam up and the wrong sides together. Mark the wire nose piece slit according to the pattern along the top seam edge, beginning and ending 1 3/4" in from each side and 1/2" deep, leaving 3/4" open for the wire to be inserted. (I like to start at the far left, sew the vertical stitches, backstitching at the beginning, pivoting at the corner and sewing to the mark for the opening, backstitching, then lifting the presser foot and moving to the base of the right-hand end of the slot, inserting the needle again and sewing the other vertical stitches, backstitching at the beginning and end. That leaves a thread you can clip off afterwards.
Attaching the ties:
Find the middle of each tie. Open the folds and place the middle of the tie open against the center of the side of the mask that has the pleats, matching raw edges. Pin in place. (This doesn't have to be too exact, because you are going to trim the ties.)
Sew the tie piece from the top of the mask to the bottom along the raw edges with a 1/4" seam.
Fold the part of the tie that attaches to the mask around the raw edges and pin in place. Beginning at one end of the tie, sew the tie closed, sewing over the side of the mask, backstitching at each place where the tie is sewn to the mask.
Repeat for the other tie. Press.
Trim each tie at 16" from the edge of the mask, or tie a knot close to 15" and cut the tie at 16" (optional)
Trim each tie at 16" from the edge of the mask, or tie a knot close to 15" and cut the tie at 16" (optional)
If this is going to a hospital, they will insert the metal wire for the nose and a filter in the opening at the bottom. If you're making this for yourself or a family member, you can insert a pipe cleaner or other flexible metal wire for the nose. You can make your own filter using two layers of cotton flannel, 6 1/2" X 3", sewing them together and finishing the edges with zigzag.
Note: The hospital will provide its own filter, so this step is unnecessary if you're donating your masks.
Keep in mind that this mask may provide some protection to the person wearing it and probably more to people in the vicinity. It is not a medical-grade mask and should not be relied upon for complete protection. Use it if you are sick to protect your family members. Use it if you must go out, but be careful what you touch and be sure to wash your hands thoroughly when you come home, as well as wiping down anything you bring home with you using a disinfectant or alcohol. If you don't absolutely have to go out, stay home. You can make more masks.
Keep in mind that this mask may provide some protection to the person wearing it and probably more to people in the vicinity. It is not a medical-grade mask and should not be relied upon for complete protection. Use it if you are sick to protect your family members. Use it if you must go out, but be careful what you touch and be sure to wash your hands thoroughly when you come home, as well as wiping down anything you bring home with you using a disinfectant or alcohol. If you don't absolutely have to go out, stay home. You can make more masks.
Note: I will be updating this blog post as I get more photos or have more experience with the pattern or comments indicate something needs rewording. Thanks for your patience.
Credit: St. Charles Health System
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