Together We Can Face Mask Pattern Tutorial

The pattern and instructions for the mask can be found here. 
If you have rotary-cutting tools and need help knowing how to cut out the fabric the fastest and easiest way, there is a tutorial specifically for this project here.

Here's what you're making. A filter (they will provide for themselves) will fit in the pouch, and there is a slot for a wire to fit to the nose (also not our responsibility).

Wash the fabric in hot water, dry and iron smooth. If you have yardage, you can fold it in half longitudinally and then again longitudinally so that you have four layers. Be sure that the folds are parallel and crisp. 

The easiest way to cut the fabric is using a rotary-cutting equipment: mat, ruler and rotary cutter. If you don't have these, you can make a paper pattern, pin it on the fabric and cut the mask pieces out.

Cut:

2 strips 1 1/2" wide from selvedge to selvedge or at least 36-38" long, which will be trimmed to length later. (I like to cut 4 strips, because when you cut through the four layers, you will have enough of the main mask pieces to make two masks.)

 For each mask, you will need 2 rectangles 8 3/4" X 7 1/2". (When you cut through the four layers, you will have enough for 2 masks.)

Press each 1 1/2" strip in half longitudinally. Then press each raw edge of the length in to the middle of the strip. Finally, press the whole piece with the two edges tucked in. (A bias-tape maker or folded-tape maker speeds this up, but you can put two pins in your ironing-board cover, spaced a few inches apart and do the same thing.)

It will look like folded bias tape. These will be the ties. (You could use commercial bias tape, but it will be stretchier, which could result in the stitching breaking, so if you use bias tape, you will need to use a zigzag or other stretchy stitch for the ties.)

Marking the rectangle for pleats:

Note: In the diagram/pattern on the second page of the instructions, the lines are called "Step 1(B) through 2(D)," so we will call each line by those names.

Take one of the 8 3/4" X 7 1/2" rectangles and, with the right side of the fabric up, draw a line 1/2" in along the narrower edge of the rectangle using a fabric marking pencil. This will be the bottom of the mask, Step 1(B).

Draw another line 1/4" from the bottom raw edge, Step 1(A) (optional).

Then go up to 2 1/4" from the same edge and draw another line, Step 2(D).

Turn the rectangle 180º and measure 3 1/2" from the opposite edge, still on the right side, Step 2(B). (This side will be the top of the mask.) The right side of the rectangle will look then like this:

Now turn the rectangle over as if you were turning a page in a book. On the wrong side of the fabric, draw a line 3 1/4" from the bottom raw edge, Step 2(C). (If you turn a corner of the rectangle over, you should see the two lines 1/4" apart, or one, if you only drew the 1/2" line.)

Rotate the fabric again and still on the wrong side of the fabric, draw a line 2 1/2" down from the top, Step 2(A).

The wrong side of the rectangle should then look like this:

I found it helpful to have a summary, so I wrote this:

RS
1/2"
1/4" (optional)
2 1/4"

Rotate 180º

3 1/2"

Flip (check to make sure you're at the bottom, with the 1/2" marked)

3 1/4"

Rotate 180º

2 1/2"

Repeat for the second rectangle.
If you're making a lot of masks, it may be helpful to mark a lot of them at one time. It's easier to remember the sequence (1/2, 2 1/4, 3 1/2, 3 1/4, 2 1/2).

Now to press the folds:

Fold on each line on the right side and press each one thoroughly. 

Turn the piece over and do the same with each line on the wrong side. Turn up the bottom raw edge to meet the first line marked and press. Then fold it again on the line and press again. These will be the bottom hems.

Do the same with the second rectangle.

On the right side of fabric and holding the hem closed, stitch 1/8" to a scant 1/4" from the folded bottom edge of each rectangle.

(You can chain piece these to save time, or use a scrap of fabric between steps. That way, you don't have to cut the thread and start again each time.)

Pin the folds closed, making adjustments as needed to be sure that each side of the mask will measure 4 1/4".

I made a pressing template for myself. It's a rectangle 7 1/2" X 4 1/4" on a piece of paper. I can put the piece I've just folded on it, and press and pin to those dimensions.

Sew each edge to hold the folds closed using a 1/4" seam. Press.

Pin the rectangles together, right sides together and top raw edges lined up. Sew the two pieces together using a 1/4" seam.

On the right side, press the seam to one side.

Fold the mask with this seam up and the wrong sides together. Mark the wire nose piece slit according to the pattern along the top seam edge, beginning and ending 1 3/4" in from each side and 1/2" deep, leaving 3/4" open for the wire to be inserted. (I like to start at the far left, sew the vertical stitches, backstitching at the beginning, pivoting at the corner and sewing to the mark for the opening, backstitching, then lifting the presser foot and moving to the base of the right-hand end of the slot, inserting the needle again and sewing the other vertical stitches, backstitching at the beginning and end. That leaves a thread you can clip off afterwards.

Attaching the ties:

Find the middle of each tie. Open the folds and place the middle of the tie open against the center of the side of the mask that has the pleats, matching raw edges. Pin in place. (This doesn't have to be too exact, because you are going to trim the ties.)

Sew the tie piece from the top of the mask to the bottom along the raw edges with a 1/4" seam. 

Fold the part of the tie that attaches to the mask around the raw edges and pin in place. Beginning at one end of the tie, sew the tie closed, sewing over the side of the mask, backstitching at each place where the tie is sewn to the mask.

Repeat for the other tie. Press.

Trim each tie at 16" from the edge of the mask, or tie a knot close to 15" and cut the tie at 16" (optional)

If this is going to a hospital, they will insert the metal wire for the nose and a filter in the opening at the bottom. If you're making this for yourself or a family member, you can insert a pipe cleaner or other flexible metal wire for the nose. You can make your own filter using two layers of cotton flannel, 6 1/2" X 3", sewing them together and finishing the edges with zigzag.

Note: The hospital will provide its own filter, so this step is unnecessary if you're donating your masks.

Keep in mind that this mask may provide some protection to the person wearing it and probably more to people in the vicinity. It is not a medical-grade mask and should not be relied upon for complete protection. Use it if you are sick to protect your family members. Use it if you must go out, but be careful what you touch and be sure to wash your hands thoroughly when you come home, as well as wiping down anything you bring home with you using a disinfectant or alcohol. If you don't absolutely have to go out, stay home. You can make more masks.

Note: I will be updating this blog post as I get more photos or have more experience with the pattern or comments indicate something needs rewording. Thanks for your patience.

Credit: St. Charles Health System

Götz Happy Kidz Easy Pajama Pants

Materials for long pajama pants: 

1/3 yd. flannel or other suitable fabric. You might be able to fit it onto 1/4 yd., but only if you cut it out carefully on the cross grain, instead of lengthwise, and you have a true 9”.

1/4” wide elastic, at least 9” (If you have plenty, don’t cut it.)

Cotton yarn or string for “tie” in front.

Medium size safety pin, straight pins

Note: 1/4” seam allowance on all seams unless otherwise stated.

Pattern Preparation:

1) Print off pattern pieces, making sure the 1” gauge measures 1”.

2) Trim the top section along the attaching line.

3) Tape or glue the two pattern pieces together if making long pants. 

4) Cut out pattern piece, then turn over and trim excess from the lower section of pattern.

Cutting: 

1) Fold fabric right-sides together. Place pants hem on straight of or cross grain. (See photo.) Pin pattern on fabric.

2) Cut out pants. (A rotary cutter and ruler may be used for the straight cuts, but you will need scissors for the curved crotch seam cuts.)

3) Before removing pattern, make a mark within the 1/4” seam allowance on each piece to indicate which is the back. 

Sewing: 

1) Remove pattern piece and, without taking the two sections apart, pin the two front curved edges together.

2) Sew front crotch seam with a 1/4” seam allowance. Do not press open.

3) Repeat for back crotch seam. Press seams flat to set the seam. Do not press open.

4) Finish both seams with zigzag or using a serger, connecting the raw edges  together, or sew the edges of the seams together using a straight stitch. There is no need to clip curves.

5) Turn to the right side and press both seams to the left. In other words, press the front seam to the left, then turn your work over and press the back seam to the left. The opposing seams will be going in opposite directions as you look at your work. (This is important for inserting the elastic and sewing the legs together.)

6) Finish the hem edges of the pants legs with zig zag or using a serger, or turn under 1/4” and sew down with a straight stitch.

7) Match crotch seams and pin with the two seams nestled together, so that both seams go in the direction they were pressed and opposite from each other. Pin the legs together, matching the leg edges at the bottom.

8) Starting at the bottom of one leg, sew a 1/4” seam up that leg, through the crotch and down the other leg. Finish with zigzag or serger, or sew seams together close to edge, using a straight stitch.

9) Turn to right side and press seam toward the back. Turn back to the wrong side.

10) It’s easier to sew a narrow tube from the inside, but sewing on the outside makes a neater hem. Therefore, working from the inside, turn up the bottom of each pants leg 1/2” (1/4” if you have already hemmed 1/4” up with a straight stitch). Still with the project turned inside-out, sew hem at 3/8” but sewing on the right side (or just inside the 1/4” if you are using a straight stitch only.)

11) Turn under waist edge 1/4” and press. Turn under again an additional 1/2” and press.

12) Pin hem in place, making sure the crotch seams are still in the direction they were pressed. (This is important.)

13) Starting about 1/2” from the back seam, sew close to first fold for elastic casing, leaving about 1” open between beginning and end, finishing about 1/2” from back seam.

14) Mark elastic at 8 1/2” but do not cut. 

15) Attach safety pin to the end of the elastic you measured from. Use safety pin to thread elastic through casing and out the other end. 

16) Remove safety pin and match that edge of the elastic to the mark you made when you measured, pulling both ends of elastic out as far as possible, making sure the elastic is not twisted. Keeping the two sections of elastic even, sew close to the mark, backstitching several times. Cut off excess. 

17) Adjust elastic back in place in the casing, and starting from the upper edge of the waist, sew down to the casing seam already made, then pivot and sew along the casing to where you started sewing the casing, pivot and sew up off the upper edge of waist. This will make it easier to tell which is the back of the pants until you get the optional “drawstring” bow on and will avoid having to backstitch. 

Optional: To make a faux drawstring, cut yarn or string a little longer than you need to tie a bow the size you like. Sew the middle of the string to the front at waist and on top of the elastic casing, backstitching several times. Trim off threads and tie the bow. Trim ends of bow if needed and make a little knot in each.

Note: For doll clothes I recommend using a dry iron and a spray bottle with water or spray sizing, rather than a steam iron. Working on a smaller scale can get your fingers a little too close to the seam.

This pattern is offered for free. If you would happily have paid for it and are willing to do so, please donate what you would have paid to CURE: https://curechildhoodcancer.org/donate/

Revision 1, 7/2/18

This pattern is protected by copyright. Any items made from it may be sold. 

Copyright © 2018 by Peggy Stuart 

Doll Sweater Steeking Tutorial

This is the plus-size or manly large-size version of the Fair Isle doll sweater designed to teach colorwork and steeks. The pattern is available on Ravelry as a free download. There are sizes for medium-size dolls here and slim dolls here. (All sizes are based on the 18"-20" size range doll.)

The ribbing is worked flat, which makes it easier to join in the round without getting the sts twisted. It also makes the bottom of the ribbing neater.

Then the chart is followed up to the shoulders, following the instructions for making the armhole steeks. (The center and armhole steeks are recognizable as in interruption of the pattern by vertical lines of alternating dark and light. In some cases, the vertical lines are interrupted because the darker or lighter color was not available for that round of knitting.)

Here is the "back" with one shoulder joined and the center 20 sts on waste yarn, ready to BO for the other shoulder. (Since it can be worn as a cardigan or a pullover, I've designated the side with the center steek as the front and side without it as the back, to simplify the instructions.) The stitch markers indicate where the steek sts start and finish. The steek sts on the left front still need to be BO, along with some of the pattern sts to make the neck opening.

Here's a photo from the front. You can see there are more sts on the front than on the back. That's because the sts held on waste yarn and those BO on the front with form the neck opening.

Here's what it looks like when the steek sts and some of the pattern sts are BO for the neck. The st left on the needle after the BO will go back onto the left needle. Then the front and back shoulder sts can be joined, either by Kitchener stitch (preferred, because there is less bulk), BO and sewn or 3-needle BO.

Here is the front with basting to outline the neck opening to have excess fabric cut away.

Here's a photo of the shoulder after Kitchenering, showing the shoulder stitches and the armhole steek stitches. When you cut, you will cut the horizontal bars between the center steek sts up to the top of the steek, but not into the Kitchenered shoulder and steek sts.

Now we are ready for the sewing machine. (Or other method of anchoring the sts if you prefer.)

First we need to trim the yarn tails from the center steek so we don't catch them in the sewing. You're looking at the body from the side. The center steek is at the top of the photo. You can tidy up the tails first if you want, but the center of the steek is going to be cut away, so it isn't really necessary.

Using the sewing machine, sew down the steek one vertical line of steek sts away from the pattern sts, so you have a slim section of steek sts to use to PU sts for the front button/buttonhole bands.

You can sew one row of machine stitches before cutting and the second row if you want. 

When cutting, I like to put something (in this case a rotary-cutting ruler) between the layers to avoid cutting the floats on the other side. Using sharp scissors and in good light, cut up the center steek on the double vertical lines of dark sts.

Then it's easy to sew the second line of sts one vertical line away from the first one.

I like to cut the armhole steeks before sewing those. The actual sewing is just the same as for the center steek.

For the neck steek, sew a line of machine sts about 1/8" away from the basting stitches, and within the part that will be cut away.

What you have now looks a bit messy. The cut edges curl under and threads are hanging down. 

You can see the machine sewing here. It doesn't have to be too exact because it won't show when your project is done, but you want to keep it within the first two vertical rows of steek sts, so you don't cut through it later when you trim the excess.

You now have a choice between knitting the sleeves first or the neck and button/buttonhole bands. I like to do the bands first, because then I can try the sweater on the doll, check out the fit and make the sleeves the right length, which is harder to do when the neck, button and buttonhole bands aren't finished.

After the steeks are cut, pick up stitches for the button/buttonhole bands, about one stitch for every steek stitch, catching the leg of each stitch that was adjacent to the pattern sts. (Note: Picking up sts at the ribbing is just the same as picking up sts at a finished edge, but when you move into the steek, you want to be sure you keep the yarn on the RS of the work. Don't accidentally start bringing the yarn through from the WS, or you'll run into trouble. You are only picking up a leg of the steek, not going through to the WS. It might help to fold the steek facing over, so you have better access to the stitch leg you're trying to pick up.)

Then count to see how many sts you have, so you can decrease to the right number. In the first row of ribbing, I decreased evenly along the row by K2tog or P2tog, depending on what fit into the ribbing pattern until I had 62 sts. (I like to put locking st markers where I want each decrease to go.)

Here's what it looks like on the inside (nonpublic side).

For this sweater, I put the buttonhole band on the left front and the button band on the right, because it's for a boy. When I had the bands done, I tried it on.

Don't worry if the shoulders stick up like wings at this point.

The sleeves will pull the shoulder seam down, and the excess steek fabric will be trimmed away.

The chart for the sleeves has the same motifs as were used on the body, but in reverse order.

Just as for the body, you can use two circs, dpns or Magic Loop. I prefer the dpns for this part, because the tube is pretty narrow, and moving from one needle to the next seems easier. As for the ribbing, I picked up more stitches than I needed and then reduced them to the 52 sts needed to start the sleeve. I made sure I had 26 sts each on the front and the back of the sleeve. 

You will need to identify the (mostly) dark vertical row of stitches in the armhole steek that is adjacent to the motif/pattern stitches. Here that row is identified with an arrow.

After picking up one of the BO underarm sts, you are going to pick up the left leg of the V in each stitch in this row up the armhole steek.

You'll continue picking up over the shoulder, and when you go down the other side, you'll be picking up the right leg of the V. In other words, you'll be picking up the leg closest to the pattern.

Here's what it looks like picking up for the sleeve.

If you're using two circs, you might want to put a stitch marker to indicate the pattern repeats. If you're using dpns and have a set of five, you can arrange the sts so the break between the needles falls at the pattern repeat. (I only needed to have some way to keep track of the pattern repeat with the 12- and 10-st motifs. They conveniently start and the beginning of the sleeve. How did that happen?)

After picking up all the armhole steek stitch legs and the other BO stitch at the bottom of the armhole, you will work the first row of the sleeve chart. As you do, you will decrease sts evenly until you have the 52 sts, as indicated on the bottom row of the chart, half of the stitches (26) on each side of the armhole. The beginning/end of round is in the middle of the underarm.

After the first sleeve is worked to the point you think you might be getting close, it's good to try the sweater on the doll. You want to stop the pattern when the sleeve is 1/2" shorter than the length you want the sleeve to be. Here the girls are kibitzing about how much longer the sleeve should be to fit Carter. 

Carter is stocky and has shorter arms and legs, but his shoulders are bigger, so that takes up some of the sleeve length. I found that stopping after the Row 30, the final decrease row, the sleeve would be about how I like it with the ribbing. (You can always make the ribbing a little longer if you need to.)

Here's the sweater with one sleeve done. (Thank you, Carter.)

You won't need to try on for length of the second sleeve, because you can just stop wherever you stopped for the first sleeve. For American Girl dolls, I'm guessing you would continue the pattern through Row 35. The sleeve chart continues through Row 42, in case your doll has longer arms. If that isn't long enough, you can refer to the Body Chart, working backwards, starting with Row 23.

The sleeves are the same width for all 18"-range dolls except for length. The differences (other than sleeve and body length) for the slimmer dolls like Götz only affect the body and neck.

I like to tie the buttons on doll clothes. I use a skinny crochet hook to pull a piece of yarn through one hole and down through the other. Then I either use the crochet hook or a yarn needle to pull each end of yarn though the button band, at least two sts apart, tie a tight knot and then snip off the tails.

Time to finish the inside. This is how it looks at this point:

I tidy up any loose knots along the sleeves (or you can untie them and weave them in if you *really* want to). If you want to save time but worry that the knots might come undone, you can run a row of machine stitching down the tails, as close as you can get to the knitting without catching it in the sts, so only the tails are sewn. It's OK if you go over the knots.

Then trim off the tails without cutting the knots (or the machine stitching, if that's what you did).

It should look something like this:

The final step is to finish off the raw edges on the inside of the sweater. You can stitch them down, being careful not to sew through to the outside, using a blanket stitch, an overcast st or cross-stitching, or you can cover the raw edges with thin decorative ribbon or stretch lace.

If you want, you can line the sleeves with nylon net or other thin, non-raveling fabric.

A word about floats and doll hands: It's really difficult to get dolls to make a fist. I know, I've tried. They seem to splay their fingers, and no matter how careful you are, the fingers sometimes get caught in the floats. But do they tell you there's a problem? There are several ways to deal with this. 

1) You can put a doll sock or a plastic sandwich bag on the doll's hand before inserting into the sleeve, pulling it off after the hand is out.
2) You can line the sleeve with nylon net or other thin fabric (better than choice #1 if the sweater is for a child's doll)
3) You can limit the stranded pattern to the upper part of the sleeve and finish the sleeve all with one color, eliminating floats.

But wait! There's one more step! Get out the runway for the models to show off your steeking handiwork. (I made this sweater for Zachary Jr.--The Doll Formerly Known as Buddy--but he lives in Wisconsin, so Carter is happy to model for me. Here it is as a cardigan.

Dolly wanted to try it on, too. The next one will be for Daphne Jr., who is just Dolly's size.

She tells me this should fit an American Girl Doll, too, but she isn't sure about the sleeve length.

When you get to this point, you deserve your Steeking Badge.

Addendum: In case you decide to line the sleeves with nylon net (or other thin fabric), a good idea if you're giving the sweater to a child's doll.

Cut a piece of nylon net the size of the sleeve. I made a template by putting the sleeve down on a piece of paper and drawing a line a little bigger than the sleeve on each side. Then I connected the two lines. The line along the top of the sleeve is the fold line. Cutting nylon net can be difficult, so find a background that shows up your color net and pin the two layers together. Cut to size.

Turn the sleeve inside-out. Pin the nylon net to the inside of the sleeve. It's OK if the net overlaps the cuff. It doesn't need to reach all the way up to the shoulder, just close.

Sew the nylon net to the sleeve at the seam, starting at the top of the cuff (where the ribbing *stops*). Be careful not to catch the outside of the knitting, even if you use thread that matches well. You only need to catch the inside layer of the yarn to keep the lining in place. You can catch both edges of the lining at the same time. When you get to the top, continue sewing the lining to the top of the sleeve, still being careful not to have the thread go all the way through to the outside.

Trim the part of the lining that overlaps the cuff (if any) to be even with the bottom of the sleeve colorwork, being careful not to cut any of the floats.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Dolls shown are these. Carter--My Sibling, My Pal. Dolly--Madame Alexander. Also shown are the Tonner My Imagination Starter Redhead and Goetz (Gotz) Classic Kidz Vroni. Yarn used is Knit Picks Palette.