Sitting, Standing, Hiking, Waiting and Housework

I'm still trying out my Eversewn Sparrow 15.

I encountered more problems, but it was my own fault again. I'm not good with machines, but I do learn, and I think I have it down, at least the things I've worked on so far.

I think my mistake was feeling smug because two of my friends in Vintage Stitchers said they didn't use the automatic needle threader on their Bernina machines, giving me the impression they couldn't make it work quickly and easily. I can use this needle threader, and it's actually faster than threading by hand. That will come in handy, as my close vision is deteriorating with age. (Not a serious condition, just the usual over-application of tincture of time.)

I figured out after changing the thread and winding a new bobbin that I didn't actually have the bobbin threaded correctly. All's good now, though, and I've been practicing by making more doll clothes.

Besides what I said about the machine last week, I would like to add that it goes over pins nicely (most of the time, but you do need to be careful). People who are making my doll bathing suit pattern are reporting that the fabric tends to go down into the hole in the throat plate of their machines unless they use some kind of stabilizer. (Coffee filters seemed to be a good suggestion.) I haven't had that problem with my new Sparrow 15.

I sewed on buttons with no problem. I've used the 3-step zigzag on the fold-over elastic (FOE), at the suggestion of this Craftsy tutorial.

I usually use a small piece of fabric at the beginning and end of seams, so I cut the thread with scissors most of the time, but sometimes I like to use the thread cutter. It's located on the side of the machine, which is convenient, because you don't have to feel around for it. It cuts the thread so it's long enough not to get swallowed up by the machine. (I know now why they didn't name this machine "Swallow.")

One more complaint, and it's another little one. Can you find the bobbin in this photo? I had to get down on the floor to find it on the floor of my sewing room. (I'm glad I can still do that.) It's also hard to thread the bobbin without good light. I think they're made out of that stuff Wonder Woman's plane is made out of. However, I think a little nail polish would help.

I was impressed when my new little machine sewed this stuff with ease:

I'm showing you the RS and the WS. It's a thick pile (at least 1/4" thick) on some kind of stretchy knit base. My Sparrow 15 sewed over the stuff with ease, using the trusty 3-step zigzag. I even manage to edge the bathrobe for Jolena with some FOE with no difficulty, but lots of pins. I think I'll use ribbon or more of the FOE to close the bathrobe. I don't think the tie made from this fleece would look as good.

When I finished the bathrobe, my sewing room looked as if someone had plucked a chicken, but the bathrobe was easy enough to make. I finished the seams with zigzag so it wouldn't keep shedding. The free pattern is from here.

Get up, Mandy!

As I explained last week, I scaled down the pattern for the Little Boy Blue Bean Bag from Moda Bakeshop by printing the side panel pattern on an 8 1/2" X 11" sheet of paper so it almost fills the paper, then calculating (caution: math involved) how big the circle needed to be to fit.

I used a heavy duck fabric. I left part of one of the side seams open for stuffing. I ended up filling it with two pounds of cheap white rice. Then I sewed it shut by hand with a blind stitch. It would make a great doorstop, it's so heavy.

I've been making the bathing suits using socks like this:

I really wanted to use the little face on the back of the heel of each sock, and I managed to figure out how to use it to make a top to a two-piece bathing suit.

I  started out making a one-piece but messed up the top, so, rather than trimming the FOE off and trying again,  I switched to a two-piece, using the bottom section for the suit bottom. I took the section I had left over from cutting for the suit and cut it right along the heel gusset, like this:

The "kitty" on the back of the cuff became the top. It had ears sticking up, so I put the straps there, using FOE salvaged from the aborted attempt of a one-piece. The second one I made didn't have the ears, so I had more flexibility about where to place the straps:

I think I have the start of a girls' beach volleyball game here. But I digress.

I'm getting comfortable with using FOE on things. Here's the first one I made for Mandy.

She had to give this swimsuit away. Daphne has become a real swimmer, so I offered to send her a bathing suit for Bella, who is Mandy's twin. I gave her the choice of all the bathing suits I had made so far, and she picked Mandy's one-piece, so I felt guilty. Mandy had waited so long for a suit, and then she didn't have it on for long. So I made her the cute two-piece. The bathing suit pattern is here.

Then I made some shorts for Jolena. I used the Liberty Jane Boot-cut jeans pattern for American Girl Dolls, but I used my own pattern for the plain back, because the original is designed for a chubbier doll.

I didn't make the blouse. It and the orange sandals came in the shipment with Jolena, extras I purchased for her, because I knew she was arriving toward the end of May with nothing but a snowsuit and long underwear. The hat (you may remember from last week) is Matilda's Closet's Bucket Hat for a child and doll. Jolena is wearing the doll version, of course.

I published another children's story on Friday. You will recognize some of the photos from previous blogs. If you want to stay up on the weekly "The Doll's Storybook," you can always find it here.


Vintage Stitchers met at Diane's on Thursday.

Carol has found her personal palette: yellow, grey, black and white. I don't think she'll ever get tired of this lovely combination. This quilt is a nice collection of blocks, with Friendship Braid and some plain blocks she has chopped up and added strips of another fabric. The borders are two different fabrics, strips from a jelly roll.

Here's the back:

Barbara had this quilt from Kaffe fabrics. (I'm not sure if that was mostly or all Kaffe.) The blocks are like snowball blocks, but with rectangles, and the corner pieces meet in the middle. A clever design.

Here's the back of this one:

Janet has been working on "Bertie's Spring."

Diane is adding to her own version of "Bertie's Year," four blocks instead of 12, and she's personalizing it some.

I worked on my never-ending Spring Flowers quilt. I finished most of the ditch-stitching and echo-quilting for one more Lemoyne star block.

We've been having to leave to be away while our house is shown. We have to go places where dogs are permitted, such as sidewalk pubs.

And Run-A-Muk Dog Park.

Happy birthday to Johan, who turned four years old on Thursday. (I wish he would stop being so sedate and would come out of his shell.) I'm looking forward to seeing this little doodle bug and his brother in a couple of months, assuming our house sells.

The latest story in "The Doll's Storybook" is here.

What's on my needles: Still the Kisu Cardigan for Jolena. Still just starting the Kitty motif. Also the Coastal Skies shawl for me, no progress. I've been sewing.

What's on my Sparrow 15: More doll clothes. Managed sewing on buttons and ready for making buttonholes.

What's in my hoop: Still the Spring Flowers quilt, worked on it a bit at Vintage Stitchers.

What's on my wheel: Stanzi is finally set up and at work, a little more spun this week. 

What's on my iPad/iPhone: Still listening to The Secret Book & Scone Society by Ellery Adams. No progress this week.

What's in my wine glass: Frontera Merlot. The price is right.

What's my tip of the week: If you think your garbage disposal has left a little bit in the bottom and it won’t grind it up and drain it out, throw a few ice cubes in, run the water for a few seconds to let it start to fill up, the turn it on. This has worked for me on anything not needing a plumber.

Note: This blog post was produced on the iPad and the MacBook, using the iPhone for some photos and some photo processing. No other computer was used in any stage of composition or posting, and no Windows were opened, waited for, cleaned or broken. No animals or dolls were harmed during the production of this blog post.

The Honeymoon Is Over!

Well, it was bound to happen. I ran into trouble with my new machine.

That's why I've been spending time sewing with it, right? This is my brand new EverSewn Sparrow 15, the bottom of the Sparrow line and the only mechanical machine in the line. 

As of last week's blog post, I had wound bobbins. Easy enough, although I did find I had to guide the thread to keep it so it wouldn't pile up in one place. No problem; where would I go? I need to sit there with my foot on the pedal. Placing the bobbin case into the machine was also easy. I like that the bobbin case fits into the machine vertically, rather than horizontally, so I don't have to dig it out or use a special bobbin remover.

I found threading very easy, once I had done it a couple of times. You just loop the thread down the right side of the blue bar, back up the left side of it, around a substantial hook you can't miss at the top and back down the way you came, stopping at the needle, where you have one more hook right at the needle. It takes maybe 30 seconds, tops.

I learned how to use the automatic needle threader. It's a little fiddly at first, and you do have to remember to pull on the loop, not the end of the thread. I also found it helped to keep my thumb in front of it to keep the thread from popping out.

I had sewn on several different thicknesses of woven fabric. I learned how to adjust the pressure of the presser foot for very thin fabric, which worked perfectly. It's the little knob right at the top of the blue bar. You just turn to adjust the presser foot pressure.

I like the reverse lever, which goes back into place when you let go, so you can go forward again quickly. You can see the lever in the photo above where I was talking about threading the machine. It's right below the "Ever" in EverSewn.

I used various widths of zigzag to finish edges and seams, but only the simple zigzag so far.

Fine so far, but then I ran into trouble. I noticed that occasionally the bobbin thread would get loopy and loose. Then it would be fine again. This concerned me. I poured over the manual and found several potential causes. The needle seemed stiff going down through the throat plate, and I started to worry that I had damaged something. However, it seemed to sew fine most of the time.

The next thing that went wrong was when I decided to change to a ball-pointed needle to use on stretch fabric. The thumb screw on the needle clamp could not be budged by this puny old person. I lowered the needle a bit so I would have more room, grabbed a piece of rubber shelf liner I use for opening jars and had another go. Nothing. It was as if it had been Superglued into place. Finally I got some pliers and, still with the rubber shelf liner (now to protect the finish on the thumb screw) I had another go. I got it half a turn, tried with my finger and thumb again, but it was still too stiff.

I ended up having to make one full revolution before I could use my fingers. Then the whole needle clamp assembly fell out. I put it back in place, inserted my needle, but then the automatic needle threader wouldn't work. I threaded by hand, and sewed a little bit with no problem.

I now had enough concerns, and it was Friday afternoon, so I called Customer Service at EverSewn. I got through very quickly to a nice lady named Karen, who helped me once I had her on speaker, so I could use my hands. Here's what I learned:

1. The stiffness of turning the wheel to make the needle go down through the throat plate is normal.

2. The problem loosening the screw to change the needle is a factory issue. She promised to report it. She didn't know whether that screw was tightened by machine or by a person, but it was certainly too tight. It doesn't need to be that tight to work.

3. Even though it sewed fine, I didn't have the needle all the way in, so the needle threader wouldn't work. Once I reinstalled the needle, the threader worked.

4. The loopy bobbin thread was due to pulling on the fabric. You don't need to do that. You have to just relax and only guide your project. On stretchy fabric, even, if you're using zigzag, you don't need to pull. Just let the zigzag do the work.

No more problems for now, and I feel assured that I can get help if I have problems in the future. I told EverSewn's nice lady Karen I would love to have an online class in how to use all the features, like a Craftsy class. I was even willing to pay for it. She said they were "in talks," so maybe there will be one soon.

I'm a happy camper, but one more negative, and it's a small one. The "dust cover" has a hole in it for the handle, so at my place, anyway, dust can still get in.

I plan to make a real dust cover from these measurements and just keep this one to protect the machine if I take it to a class sometime.

So what have I made using my new Sparrow 15? First the simple straight sewing and just using the zigzag for finishing the raw edges. Some pajama pants for Mandy. This is a simple, one-pattern-piece design with a faux drawstring. I wrote up the pattern and a tutorial to make it really easy here.

Then I made a play outfit for Jolena, based on Simplicity 1484, but with a lot of modifications. I altered the neck, shoulders and armholes. I cut the skirt on the bias, because then it doesn't fray when you gather it and I like the drape better. The pants are similar to the tights in the same pattern, but made wider by 1/2", because I was using woven fabric, not stretchy, and 1" shorter, so I could add a folded band of contrast around the bottom, also cut on the bias, so the fitting would be easier.

Then I used a very thick fabric. I think this is duck. It's a very dark navy. I made a beanbag chair for the girls.

I found this pattern and enlarged a screen shot of the pattern piece so it filled an 8 1/2 X 11" piece of paper.  (It was designed for a toddler, so you would have to enlarge the pattern piece much more.) For the round piece, I picked out a plate to use for a pattern, once I had the six wedges sewn together and could see how big my circle needed to be. I stuffed the beanbag with plastic bags. Vroni thinks it still isn't full enough.

The bags will come out. After we get moved, I'll probably fill it with a bag of rice and sew it shut. Unless I can find some polybeads that are cheaper.

Then I jumped into using stretchy fabric to make a couple more swimsuits for the girls using socks.

The hats are Matilda's Closet's Bucket Hat pattern from Pixie Faire, but I didn't use interfacing, and instead of leaving an opening on the edge of the brim, I left one in the lining, where the brim and band meet, about 2". That was I was able to get the brim nice and smooth. I closed the opening when I topstitched around the bottom of the band.

I wrote up a full tutorial with the new bathing suit design here. It's funny how I had no trouble with the stitching once I stopped pulling on it. This was pretty easy.

Stanzi came out of hibernation. I set her up in the almost-empty loom area of my fiber studio as-was and loaded her with some Merino/Tencel roving from AlohaBlu. The colorway is "Frog Prince."

Common Threads met at my house, since I finally got it clean. We had a nice time together and some pretty projects to see. Karan was working on this Idaho Lilly quilt.

Susan, one of our part-time residents, came with some knitting and this woven dish towel to show.

Margareth was working on an appliquéd wall hanging. I snapped this photo before I knew it would be displayed vertically.

The Doll's Storybook blog for children came out as scheduled on Friday. In this one is called What Do Dolls Do on Their Day Off? I hope it isn't too scary; it has a bear in it.

So the honeymoon is over, but it looks like the marriage will last.

What's on my needles: Still the Kisu Cardigan for Jolena. Just starting the Kitty motif. Also the Coastal Skies shawl for me, no progress.

What's on my Sparrow 15: More doll clothes. Working up to things like sewing on buttons and making buttonholes.

What's in my hoop: Still the Spring Flowers quilt, no progress at all this week.

What's on my wheel: Stanzi is finally set up and at work. 

What's on my iPad/iPhone: Still listening to The Secret Book & Scone Society by Ellery Adams. No progress this week.

What's in my wine glass: Lindeman's Cawarra Shiraz-Cabernet 2017. 

What's my tip of the week: A fleece bag filled with rice makes a great microwaveable heating pad. I have a couple. I make them longer than they are wide, not over full, so it will wrap around whatever part of your anatomy you want to use it for. I find I can often avoid using aspirin for joint pain. Midwinter it's nice in bed while I brush my teeth so I can climb into a warm bed.

Note: This blog post was produced on the iPad and the MacBook, using the iPhone for some photos and some photo processing. No other computer was used in any stage of composition or posting, and no Windows were opened, waited for, cleaned or broken. No animals or dolls were harmed during the production of this blog post.

Götz Happy Kidz Easy Pajama Pants

Materials for long pajama pants: 

1/3 yd. flannel or other suitable fabric. You might be able to fit it onto 1/4 yd., but only if you cut it out carefully on the cross grain, instead of lengthwise, and you have a true 9”.

1/4” wide elastic, at least 9” (If you have plenty, don’t cut it.)

Cotton yarn or string for “tie” in front.

Medium size safety pin, straight pins

Note: 1/4” seam allowance on all seams unless otherwise stated.

Pattern Preparation:

1) Print off pattern pieces, making sure the 1” gauge measures 1”.

2) Trim the top section along the attaching line.

3) Tape or glue the two pattern pieces together if making long pants. 

4) Cut out pattern piece, then turn over and trim excess from the lower section of pattern.

Cutting: 

1) Fold fabric right-sides together. Place pants hem on straight of or cross grain. (See photo.) Pin pattern on fabric.

2) Cut out pants. (A rotary cutter and ruler may be used for the straight cuts, but you will need scissors for the curved crotch seam cuts.)

3) Before removing pattern, make a mark within the 1/4” seam allowance on each piece to indicate which is the back. 

Sewing: 

1) Remove pattern piece and, without taking the two sections apart, pin the two front curved edges together.

2) Sew front crotch seam with a 1/4” seam allowance. Do not press open.

3) Repeat for back crotch seam. Press seams flat to set the seam. Do not press open.

4) Finish both seams with zigzag or using a serger, connecting the raw edges  together, or sew the edges of the seams together using a straight stitch. There is no need to clip curves.

5) Turn to the right side and press both seams to the left. In other words, press the front seam to the left, then turn your work over and press the back seam to the left. The opposing seams will be going in opposite directions as you look at your work. (This is important for inserting the elastic and sewing the legs together.)

6) Finish the hem edges of the pants legs with zig zag or using a serger, or turn under 1/4” and sew down with a straight stitch.

7) Match crotch seams and pin with the two seams nestled together, so that both seams go in the direction they were pressed and opposite from each other. Pin the legs together, matching the leg edges at the bottom.

8) Starting at the bottom of one leg, sew a 1/4” seam up that leg, through the crotch and down the other leg. Finish with zigzag or serger, or sew seams together close to edge, using a straight stitch.

9) Turn to right side and press seam toward the back. Turn back to the wrong side.

10) It’s easier to sew a narrow tube from the inside, but sewing on the outside makes a neater hem. Therefore, working from the inside, turn up the bottom of each pants leg 1/2” (1/4” if you have already hemmed 1/4” up with a straight stitch). Still with the project turned inside-out, sew hem at 3/8” but sewing on the right side (or just inside the 1/4” if you are using a straight stitch only.)

11) Turn under waist edge 1/4” and press. Turn under again an additional 1/2” and press.

12) Pin hem in place, making sure the crotch seams are still in the direction they were pressed. (This is important.)

13) Starting about 1/2” from the back seam, sew close to first fold for elastic casing, leaving about 1” open between beginning and end, finishing about 1/2” from back seam.

14) Mark elastic at 8 1/2” but do not cut. 

15) Attach safety pin to the end of the elastic you measured from. Use safety pin to thread elastic through casing and out the other end. 

16) Remove safety pin and match that edge of the elastic to the mark you made when you measured, pulling both ends of elastic out as far as possible, making sure the elastic is not twisted. Keeping the two sections of elastic even, sew close to the mark, backstitching several times. Cut off excess. 

17) Adjust elastic back in place in the casing, and starting from the upper edge of the waist, sew down to the casing seam already made, then pivot and sew along the casing to where you started sewing the casing, pivot and sew up off the upper edge of waist. This will make it easier to tell which is the back of the pants until you get the optional “drawstring” bow on and will avoid having to backstitch. 

Optional: To make a faux drawstring, cut yarn or string a little longer than you need to tie a bow the size you like. Sew the middle of the string to the front at waist and on top of the elastic casing, backstitching several times. Trim off threads and tie the bow. Trim ends of bow if needed and make a little knot in each.

Note: For doll clothes I recommend using a dry iron and a spray bottle with water or spray sizing, rather than a steam iron. Working on a smaller scale can get your fingers a little too close to the seam.

This pattern is offered for free. If you would happily have paid for it and are willing to do so, please donate what you would have paid to CURE: https://curechildhoodcancer.org/donate/

Revision 1, 7/2/18

This pattern is protected by copyright. Any items made from it may be sold. 

Copyright © 2018 by Peggy Stuart