Great Northern Caper

The Lace Caper Dress

by Peggy Stuart 

Copied from a photo on Pinterest of a dress made by a Russian designer. This pattern is made to fit Gotz Hannah, Happy Kidz and Classic Kidz. Modifications might be needed to fit other 18-19” dolls. Bodice is worked back and forth. Skirt and sleeves are worked in the round or flat. 

Materials:

Yarn: 4-ply/fingering yarn, 1 50g ball. 45g of Knit Picks Palette was used.

Needles: 2.25mm/US1 - 2.75mm/US2, or size needed to get gauge for bodice, 2 sets of dpns , 2 circulars or 1 long circular 32” or longer for Magic Loop.

Buttons: 3 3/8” buttons.

Other notions: Small amount of tulle, optional, stitch markers or yarn scraps.

Gauge: 32 sts and 44 rows = 4” over stockinette st. (Leaves or diamonds should measure 1 1/4"/3.1cm from top to bottom.

(Note: I have put the buttonholes at both ends. This makes it easier to know where to sew on the buttons.) 

Dress:

Ribbing: CO 69 sts. Work 3 rows of 1 X 1 ribbing, starting with P. You place marker after 13, 10, 23, 10 sts with 13 left, or instead you can wrap the K1 stitches with a contrast yarn (see photo, below).

If you do this, the sts wrapped are the 13th, 23rd, 47th and 57th, with 12 sts left. The yarn is easily taken out and moved upward as you work that st. It's important that the M1L comes before the marked stitch and the M1R comes after.

Bodice (using chart)

Row 1: RS, (Buttonhole Row. Slip markers or move yarn as you come to them.) K1, YO, k2tog, k9, M1L, K1, M1R, K9, M1L, K1, M1R, Work first row of chart on next 23 sts (stitches added with the increases bring it to 25), M1L, K1, M1R, K9, M1L, K1, M1R, K9, K 1, YO, K2tog. (77 sts)  

Row 2 and all WS rows: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.

Row 3 and all RS rows through row 15, slipping markers or moving yarn as you come to them: K to Marker or yarn, M1L, K1, M1R, K to marker or yarn, M1L, K1, M1R, work row of chart, M1L, K1, M1R, K to 1 st before marker or yarn, M1L, K1, K to end. (133 sts at end of Row 15)

Row 17: (Buttonhole Row) K1, YO, K2tog, K17, M1L, K1, M1R, K25, M1L, K1, starting with P1, work Row 17 of chart, ending with P1 (increases are built into the YOs in chart), K1, M1R, K25, M1L, K1, M1R, K17 K1, YO, K2tog. (141 sts)

Row 19a: (Sleeve divide if working the sleeves in the round) Removing markers or yarn as you come to them, K21 and place next 29 sts on waste yarn. CO 2, continue across 41 front sts according to chart, place next 29 sts on waste yarn, CO 2, K to last end. (87 sts) 

Place markers after 23rd and 64th sts for chart borders. 

Row 19b: (Sleeve divide for working sleeves flat) Removing markers or yarn as you come to them, K21 and place these sts on waste yarn or holder, CO 1, K 29 sts, turn and work 3 rows of 1X1 ribbing, BO. Reattach yarn at underarm, CO2, SSK, (K2, YO, K3, YO, K2, CDD) 3 times, K2, YO, K3, YO, K2, SSK, K next 29 sts, CO1, turn and work 3 rows of 1X1 ribbing, BO, reattach yarn again, CO 2, K to last end. (87 sts)

Row 20 and all WS rows to bottom of chart, Row 48: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.

Rows 21, 23: K to 1 st before marker, Sl1, RM, work CDD incorporating st previously slipped, replace marker right before CDD just made, continue with chart to last two sts before next marker, Sl2, RM, Sl1 st back onto left needle and work CDD incorporating 1 st from next section, replace marker just after CDD, K to end. 2 sts decreased. (Row 21: 85 sts, Row 23: 83 sts)

Row 25 and all RS Rows through Row 47 except Rows 33 (Buttonhole Row), 35, 37 and 39: K to marker, SM, work chart, SM, K to end. 

Row 33: (Buttonhole Row) K1, YO, K2tog, K to 1 st before marker, Sl1, RM, work CDD incorporating st previously slipped, replace marker just before CDD, continue with chart to last two sts before next marker, Sl2, RM, Sl1 st back onto left needle and work CDD incorporating 1 st from next section, replace marker just after CDD, K to last 3 sts, K1, YO, K2tog. 2 sts decreased. (Markers should now be before first CDD and after last CDD in Row 33.)

Rows 35, 37 and 39: K3, K to 1 st before marker, Sl1, RM, work CDD incorporating st previously slipped, continue with chart to last two sts before next marker,  Sl2, RM, Sl1 st back onto left needle and work CDD incorporating 1 st from next section, K to end, replacing markers as for Row 33. 2 sts decreased. At the end of this section of chart you should have 75 sts.

Bodice (written directions)

CO and work ribbing and place markers as written.

Row 1: RS, (Buttonhole Row.) K1, YO, k2tog, k9, M1L, K1, M1R, K9, M1L, K1, M1R, K1, K2tog, K3, YO, K1, YO, K3, CDD, K3, YO, K1, YO, K3, SSK, K1, M1L, K1, M1R, K9, M1L, K1, M1R, K9, K 1, YO, K2tog. (77 sts) 

Row 2 and all WS rows: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. 

Row 3: K 12 (to marker), M1L, K1, M1R, K 11, (to marker) M1L, K1, M1R, K2, K2tog, K2, YO, K3, YO, K2, CDD, K2, YO, K3, YO, K2, SSK, K2, M1L, K1, M1R, K11 (to marker), M1L, K1, K to end. (85 sts)

Row 5: K to Marker, M1L, K1, M1R, K to marker, M1L, K1, M1R, K1, (YO, K1, CDD, K1, YO, K5) 2 times, YO, K1, CDD, K1, YO, K1, M1L, K1, M1R, K to 1 st before marker, M1L, K1, M1R, K to end. (93 sts)

Row 7: K to marker, M1L, K1, M1R, K to marker or yarn, M1L, K1, M1R, K3, (YO, CDD, YO, K7) 2 times, YO, CDD, YO, K3, M1L, K1, M1R, K to 1 st before marker, M1L, K1, M1R, K to end. (101 sts)

Row 9: K to marker, M1L, K1, M1R, K to marker, M1L, K1, M1R, K2tog, (K3, YO, K1, YO, K3, CDD) 2 times, K3, YO, K1, YO, K3, SSK, M1L, K1, M1R, K to 1 st before marker, M1L, K1, M1R, K to end. (109 sts)

Row 11: K to marker, M1L, K1, M1R, K to marker or yarn, M1L, K1, M1R, K1, K2tog, (K2, YO, K3, YO, K2, CDD) 2 times, K2, YO, K3, YO, K2, SSK, K1, M1L, K1, M1R, K to 1 st before marker, M1L, K1, M1R, K to end. (117 sts)

Row 13: K to marker, M1L, K1, M1R, K to marker, M1L, K1, M1R, (YO, K1, CDD, K1, YO, K5) 3 times, YO, K1, CDD, K1, YO, M1L, K1, M1R, K to 1 st before marker, M1L, K1, M1R, K to end. (125 sts)

Row 15: K to marker, M1L, K1, M1R, K to marker, M1L, K1, M1R, K2, (YO, CDD, YO, K7) 3 times, YO, CDD, YO, K2, M1L, K1, M1R, K to 1 st before marker, M1L, K1, M1R, K to end. (133 sts) 

Row 17: (Buttonhole Row. There is no M1 at either end of lace section; increases are built in with the YOs) K1, YO, K2tog, K17, M1L, K1, M1R, K25, M1L, K1, P1, (K3, YO, K1, YO, K3, CDD) 3 times, K3, YO, K1, YO, K3, P1, K1, M1R, K25, M1L, K1, M1R, K17 K1, YO, K2tog. (141 sts) 

Row 19a: (Sleeve divide for working  sleeves in the round) Removing markers or yarn as you come to them, K21 and place next 29 sts on waste yarn. CO 2, SSK, (K2, YO, K3, YO, K2, CDD) 3 times, K2, YO, K3, YO, K2, SSK, place next 29 sts on waste yarn, CO 2, K to last end. (87 sts) 

Row 19b: (Sleeve divide for working sleeves flat) Removing markers or yarn as you come to them, K21 and place these sts on waste yarn or holder, CO 1, K 29 sts, turn and work 3 rows of 1X1 ribbing, BO. Reattach yarn at underarm, CO2, SSK, (K2, YO, K3, YO, K2, CDD) 3 times, K2, YO, K3, YO, K2, SSK, K next 29 sts, CO1, turn and work 3 rows of 1X1 ribbing, BO, reattach yarn again, CO 2, K to last end. (87 sts) 

Row 20 and all WS rows to bottom of bodice, Row 48: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. 

Row 21: K 22, (CDD, K1, YO, K5, YO, K1) 4 times, CDD, K2, K to end. 2 sts decreased. (85 sts) 

Row 23: K 21, (CDD, YO, K7, YO) 4 times, CDD, K to end. 2 sts decreased. (83 sts) 

Row 25: K 22, (YO, K3, CDD, K3, YO, K1) 4 times, K to end. (83 sts) 

Row 27: K 23, (YO, K2, CDD, K2, YO, K3) 3 times, YO, K2, CDD, K2, YO, K to end. (83 sts) 

Row 29: K 24, (YO, K1, CDD, K1, YO, K5) 3 times, YO, K1, CDD, K1, YO, K to end. (83 sts) 

Row 31: K25, (YO, CDD, YO, K7) 3 times, YO, CDD, YO, K to end. (83 sts) 

Row 33: K1, YO, K2tog, K 17, (CDD, K3, YO, K1, YO, K3) 4 times, CDD, K to last 2 sts, YO, K2tog. (81 sts) 

Row 35: K 19, (CDD, K2, YO, K3, YO, K2) 4 times, CDD, K to end. (79 sts) 

Row 37: K 18, (CDD, K1, YO, K5, YO, K1) 4 times, CDD, K to end. (77 sts) 

Row 39: K 17, (CDD, YO, K7, YO) 4 times, CDD, K to end. (75 sts) 

Row 41: K 18, (YO, K3, CDD, K3, YO, K1) 4 times, K to end. (75 sts) 

Row 43: K 19, (YO, K2, CDD, K2, YO, K3) 3 times, YO, K2, CDD, K2, YO, K to end. (75 sts) 

Row 45: K 20, (YO, K1, CDD, K1, YO, K5) 3 times, YO, K1, CDD, K1, YO, K to end. (75 sts) 

Row 47: K 21, (YO, CDD, YO, K 7) 3 times, YO, CDD, YO, K to end.

Continue with skirt.

Skirt section is worked with needle one size larger for more fullness. May be worked flat and seamed by working the K and P sts as they appear and P the YOs. **See further instructions for working flat at end of pattern.

Or: Using 2 sets of dpns, 2 circular needles or one longer circular needle and Magic Loop, work in the round.

Skirt (worked in the round)**

Set-up round: Place first and last 3 sts on 2 dpns and overlap (left over right) and K 1 stitch from each needle (as for a 3-needle BO) together, then P the 2nd and 3rd stitches from each together (this serves to join to work in the round). Then (K2, P2) to the end. (72 sts) You can place stitch markers at the beginning of each of the 18 sections if you want, but the pattern is easy to see after the first few rounds.

Rnd 1: K1, (P2, K1, YO, K1) to last 3 sts, P2, K1 YO. K the next st onto the end to hold the YO in place, and then the beginning of round will be the first of the P2 at the join.

Rnd 2, 3, 4: (P2, K3) to end.

Rnd 5: (P2, K1, YO, K1, YO, K1) to end.

Rnd 6 and all other non-pattern rnds: (P2, K to end of section) to end.

Rnds 9, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29, 33 and 37: (P2, K1, YO, K to last st in section, YO, K1) to end.

There are 414 sts after Rnd 37.

Continue until 40 rounds have been worked. Each section will be 23 sts. (414 sts) BO in pattern after Rnd 40.

Reattach yarn to sleeve opening and with dpns or circular needles PU 1 st at underarm, K to end of round, PU and K 1 st at underarm (31 sts). (K1, P1) to last 3 sts, K1, P2tog (30 sts). Work 2 more rounds of K1, P1 ribbing. BO in rib. 

Finishing: Weave in ends, sew buttons on left back closing extra buttonholes. Sew underarm sleeve seams and skirt if knit flat. Block. (Skirt hem will need heavy blocking.)

Abbreviations:

YO: Yarn over, also called yarn forward. Bring yarn to front and over needle. Work next st. It will make a hole. For this pattern, it is used for making button holes and follows K2tog, so no stitch increase.

CO: Cast on. Use long-tailed CO to start project. For flat version of sleeves and underarms, use backward-loop CO. 

BO: Bind off, cast off.

CDD: Central Double Decrease. Sl 1, K2tog, psso.

M1L: Pick up bar between sts through the front, K through back loop

M1R: Pick up bar between sts through the back, K through front loop

PM: Place marker.

SM: Slip marker.

For longer skirt,  increases may be made with more rounds between, such as every 3rd round for the swirled skirt or every 6th round for the balanced version.

**To work skirt flat, do not join back bands, but work first round as written, but K the last 3 sts. Row 2: Turn, BO 3 sts and work the sts as they appear (K the sts that appear as K, P the stitches that appear as P) and P the YOs. Work all RS rows as written for in the round and WS rows as Row 2, but without binding off any sts. You will need to overlap the bands and sew up the back when you finish the dress.

Note: (Added 2/25/2023) I am unable to respond to comments on this blog. Please contact me on Ravelry if you have questions.

This pattern is protected by copyright.

Any items made from it may be sold.

Copyright © 2018 by Peggy Stuart 

Last update: 5/11/18