Gotz Happy Kidz Checkered Shirt Pattern

Gotz Happy Kidz Checkered Shirt

Copyright © 2018 by Peggy Stuart

Pattern will require at least 1/3 yd. of fabric. If you only have 1/4 yd., it is possible with very careful cutting. (See end of pattern for photos of how this can be done.

Print all three sheets of pattern, making sure the 1” test gauge is 1”.

Cut out all pieces or transfer to freezer paper* or pattern tissue. Identify pieces that must be cut on the bias** and put them aside. 

Fold fabric over 17 1/4", so that the remaining pattern pieces will fit, lining up along the fold those that must be cut on the fold and matching the straight of grain lines with the straight of grain of the fabric. You may use lengthwise or crosswise straight of grain, but pay attention to any directional design or lines in the fabric. The yoke back will have to be repositioned and cut out again so that you have two. (One will line the back.)

After cutting out the main pattern pieces, open fabric and make a fold on a 45º angle with fabric wide enough to fit collar on the fold. Cut out collar.

Refold fabric if needed, still keeping the fold on a 45º angle. Place the cuff pattern on the fold, and leaving enough room to cut a second cuff, cut out. Repeat for second cuff. The pocket may be cut out of a scrap, placing the pattern on a 45º angle.

Take pocket piece and finish top edge with zigzag, pinking shears or sewing under 1/4”. Fold on fold line with right sides together. Sew one edge closed to make a hem, continue down the pocket with 1/4” of seam allowance, pivot at each corner and continue up to the fold at the top of the pocket hem. Trim corners. Turn pocket to right side, and using stitching as a guide, fold under the 1/4” seam allowance. Press. Top stitch pocket hem. Using pattern as a guide, position pocket on left front and stitch down close to edge, securing beginning and end with back stitching or by pulling front thread through to back and tying together with bobbin thread. 

Take one yoke piece and sew each shoulder to one of the two front facing pieces so that the neck opening is in the middle and the armscyes/sleeve openings are on the outside. (If you are using a fabric with no right side, such as a woven check, be sure your front facing pieces are facing the right direction before sewing.)

Take the other yoke piece and sew each shoulder to one of the two shirt fronts, making sure that the neck opening is in the middle and the armscyes/sleeve openings are on the outside.

Fold collar so that right sides are together. Sew both ends. Trim corners. (Tip: It will be easier to turn if you press seam open at this point.) 

Turn to right side and press. Fold collar in half to find middle, pin middle of collar to middle of back neck. Pin collar to right side of shirt fronts and outside back yoke. You should have 3/4” extra shirt front on each side. Baste in place. 

Pin front facings and back yoke lining from center back down to the bottom of the shirt front on each side. Sew, trim and clip seams, and turn to right side. Press. Zigzag over edges of front facing.

Baste back yoke to back yoke facing.

Pin back to back yoke, matching both ends and the middle. Pin along seam starting at outer edges. When you find you have extra fabric, fold it toward the middle and pin. Repeat on other side. This forms the pleat in the center back. On the inside, you will have two folds that meet where you have pinned in the middle.

  
Sew seam and finish with zigzag or overcast.

The back should look like this.

Press seam toward yoke.

Sleeves are symmetrical, so they can go on either side. Sew two lines of basting stitching along top,  curved edge of each sleeve. You may not need to gather these; sewing them may be enough.

With sleeve on top, pin top of sleeve to armscye/sleeve opening, right sides together, matching beginning and end of seam and middle of the sleeve top with the middle of the armscye/sleeve opening, using as many pins as needed to keep the two edges together. Make sure you have caught the sleeve edge of front facing even with the front armhole/sleeve opening. Sew seam, being careful to keep shirt front and yoke from gathering underneath. Repeat for other sleeve.  Finish edges with zigzag or overcast, if possible.

Now you have a choice: You can sew the underarm seams, sew the ends of the cuff closed, fold the cuff over and sew the cuff to the right side of the sleeve, matching the underarm seam with the cuff seam…

Or, you can take the chicken’s way out and sew the cuff, folded wrong sides together, to the bottom of the sleeve and then sew the underarm sleeve. If you can get your doll to keep her arms down, the underarm sleeve seams may not show. Finish underarm seam with zigzag or overcast stitching, and tell your doll not to volunteer any answers in class.

If you are brave and willing to sew the underarm seams and the cuff seam first, pin them in place, then finish the both seams with zigzag or overcast stitching, take each cuff and sew the ends together. 

Press seams open, then fold the cuff, wrong sides together. 

With the cuff on the outside of the sleeve and matching the underarm sleeve with the cuff seam, pin carefully, using only a few pins and lining up the cut edges of the seam.  

This is a very tight cylinder, and the pins get in the way, so I like to push them all the way in as far as they will go, and then pull them back into place as I approach them, pulling out any pins I’ve passed as I go. It’s very tight, but depending on your sewing machine, quite manageable, and the result is a nicely finished underarm seam. And your doll can raise her hand in class. 

Zigzag or overcast over the seam again; it will be easier with the pins gone. 

At this point, you can finish the lower seam. You can turn it under 1/4”, then another 1/4” and sew it down with the front facings folded in place, or you can pink the edges with pinking shears, then fold over and sew in place or my preferred method is to run a line of zigzag stitching along the lower edge, fold up and press 1/2”, then fold the facings in place and sew 1/3” or 1/4” along the bottom on the right side.

Buttons: You can sew Velcro on the two front edges, overlapping slightly with the top of the Velcro even with the button placement indicated on the pattern, then sew buttons evenly space on the right front or you can make the top buttonhole on the right front even with the button placement on the left front and space the others evenly below it, sewing buttons in the corresponding positions.

Press shirt, dress your doll and turn up the sleeve cuffs to the position you prefer.

*If you use freezer paper, you can iron the pattern, shiny side down, onto your fabric, cut the straight lines with a rotary cutter and then put in pins before cutting the curved lines of the pattern.

**These pieces may be cut on the straight of grain to save fabric, but cutting on the bias makes construction easier and, in the case of stripes, plaids or checks, provides a nice contrast to the lines in the main pieces.

This pattern is protected by copyright.

Any items made from it may be sold.

Copyright © 2018 by Peggy Stuart 

Gotz Happy Kidz Checkered Shirt Rev. 3, 7/22/18

Please note: If you would have paid for this pattern and would like to do so, please donate the amount you would have spent to CURE Childhood Cancer, https://curechildhoodcancer.org/donate/. I thank you for your generosity and for not having to do the books.

If you have children who enjoy stories about dolls, check out my blog for children, The Doll’s Storybook at thedollsstorybook.blogspot.com

Managing with 1/4 yd.

Fold fabric at 17 1/4". Place pattern pieces that go on the straight of grain and the pocket as indicated in photo, avoiding selvedge. (Pocket only goes through one layer.) Cut out all pieces except for pocket. You will only have one back yoke piece so far.

Separate pocket from rest of fabric and cut out.

Place back yoke pattern on fabric as shown and cut out. This will give you the second back yoke piece.

Like the pocket, the cuffs and collar will be cut out on the bias. The arrow indicates the straight of grain, either lengthwise or crosswise. 
Fold remaining fabric as shown below. The cuff pattern should only just fit without going into the selvedge. Pin cuff pattern on fold as indicated and cut out, trying not to cut too far past the pattern piece. This will give you the first cuff piece.

Refold fabric again and pin collar to fold. Cut out. This is the entire collar.

To get the second cuff, fold as in the photo below, pin cuff pattern to fold and cut out.

If you want a second pocket, you may have enough fabric left for it, if you have been careful in cutting.

Götz Happy Kidz Easy Pajama Pants

Materials for long pajama pants: 

1/3 yd. flannel or other suitable fabric. You might be able to fit it onto 1/4 yd., but only if you cut it out carefully on the cross grain, instead of lengthwise, and you have a true 9”.

1/4” wide elastic, at least 9” (If you have plenty, don’t cut it.)

Cotton yarn or string for “tie” in front.

Medium size safety pin, straight pins

Note: 1/4” seam allowance on all seams unless otherwise stated.

Pattern Preparation:

1) Print off pattern pieces, making sure the 1” gauge measures 1”.

2) Trim the top section along the attaching line.

3) Tape or glue the two pattern pieces together if making long pants. 

4) Cut out pattern piece, then turn over and trim excess from the lower section of pattern.

Cutting: 

1) Fold fabric right-sides together. Place pants hem on straight of or cross grain. (See photo.) Pin pattern on fabric.

2) Cut out pants. (A rotary cutter and ruler may be used for the straight cuts, but you will need scissors for the curved crotch seam cuts.)

3) Before removing pattern, make a mark within the 1/4” seam allowance on each piece to indicate which is the back. 

Sewing: 

1) Remove pattern piece and, without taking the two sections apart, pin the two front curved edges together.

2) Sew front crotch seam with a 1/4” seam allowance. Do not press open.

3) Repeat for back crotch seam. Press seams flat to set the seam. Do not press open.

4) Finish both seams with zigzag or using a serger, connecting the raw edges  together, or sew the edges of the seams together using a straight stitch. There is no need to clip curves.

5) Turn to the right side and press both seams to the left. In other words, press the front seam to the left, then turn your work over and press the back seam to the left. The opposing seams will be going in opposite directions as you look at your work. (This is important for inserting the elastic and sewing the legs together.)

6) Finish the hem edges of the pants legs with zig zag or using a serger, or turn under 1/4” and sew down with a straight stitch.

7) Match crotch seams and pin with the two seams nestled together, so that both seams go in the direction they were pressed and opposite from each other. Pin the legs together, matching the leg edges at the bottom.

8) Starting at the bottom of one leg, sew a 1/4” seam up that leg, through the crotch and down the other leg. Finish with zigzag or serger, or sew seams together close to edge, using a straight stitch.

9) Turn to right side and press seam toward the back. Turn back to the wrong side.

10) It’s easier to sew a narrow tube from the inside, but sewing on the outside makes a neater hem. Therefore, working from the inside, turn up the bottom of each pants leg 1/2” (1/4” if you have already hemmed 1/4” up with a straight stitch). Still with the project turned inside-out, sew hem at 3/8” but sewing on the right side (or just inside the 1/4” if you are using a straight stitch only.)

11) Turn under waist edge 1/4” and press. Turn under again an additional 1/2” and press.

12) Pin hem in place, making sure the crotch seams are still in the direction they were pressed. (This is important.)

13) Starting about 1/2” from the back seam, sew close to first fold for elastic casing, leaving about 1” open between beginning and end, finishing about 1/2” from back seam.

14) Mark elastic at 8 1/2” but do not cut. 

15) Attach safety pin to the end of the elastic you measured from. Use safety pin to thread elastic through casing and out the other end. 

16) Remove safety pin and match that edge of the elastic to the mark you made when you measured, pulling both ends of elastic out as far as possible, making sure the elastic is not twisted. Keeping the two sections of elastic even, sew close to the mark, backstitching several times. Cut off excess. 

17) Adjust elastic back in place in the casing, and starting from the upper edge of the waist, sew down to the casing seam already made, then pivot and sew along the casing to where you started sewing the casing, pivot and sew up off the upper edge of waist. This will make it easier to tell which is the back of the pants until you get the optional “drawstring” bow on and will avoid having to backstitch. 

Optional: To make a faux drawstring, cut yarn or string a little longer than you need to tie a bow the size you like. Sew the middle of the string to the front at waist and on top of the elastic casing, backstitching several times. Trim off threads and tie the bow. Trim ends of bow if needed and make a little knot in each.

Note: For doll clothes I recommend using a dry iron and a spray bottle with water or spray sizing, rather than a steam iron. Working on a smaller scale can get your fingers a little too close to the seam.

This pattern is offered for free. If you would happily have paid for it and are willing to do so, please donate what you would have paid to CURE: https://curechildhoodcancer.org/donate/

Revision 1, 7/2/18

This pattern is protected by copyright. Any items made from it may be sold. 

Copyright © 2018 by Peggy Stuart