Materials for long pajama pants:
1/3 yd. flannel or other suitable fabric. You might be able to fit it onto 1/4 yd., but only if you cut it out carefully on the cross grain, instead of lengthwise, and you have a true 9”.
1/4” wide elastic, at least 9” (If you have plenty, don’t cut it.)
Cotton yarn or string for “tie” in front.
Medium size safety pin, straight pins
Note: 1/4” seam allowance on all seams unless otherwise stated.
Pattern Preparation:
1) Print off pattern pieces, making sure the 1” gauge measures 1”.
2) Trim the top section along the attaching line.
3) Tape or glue the two pattern pieces together if making long pants.
4) Cut out pattern piece, then turn over and trim excess from the lower section of pattern.
Cutting:
1) Fold fabric right-sides together. Place pants hem on straight of or cross grain. (See photo.) Pin pattern on fabric.
2) Cut out pants. (A rotary cutter and ruler may be used for the straight cuts, but you will need scissors for the curved crotch seam cuts.)
3) Before removing pattern, make a mark within the 1/4” seam allowance on each piece to indicate which is the back.
Sewing:
1) Remove pattern piece and, without taking the two sections apart, pin the two front curved edges together.
2) Sew front crotch seam with a 1/4” seam allowance. Do not press open.
3) Repeat for back crotch seam. Press seams flat to set the seam. Do not press open.
4) Finish both seams with zigzag or using a serger, connecting the raw edges together, or sew the edges of the seams together using a straight stitch. There is no need to clip curves.
5) Turn to the right side and press both seams to the left. In other words, press the front seam to the left, then turn your work over and press the back seam to the left. The opposing seams will be going in opposite directions as you look at your work. (This is important for inserting the elastic and sewing the legs together.)
6) Finish the hem edges of the pants legs with zig zag or using a serger, or turn under 1/4” and sew down with a straight stitch.
7) Match crotch seams and pin with the two seams nestled together, so that both seams go in the direction they were pressed and opposite from each other. Pin the legs together, matching the leg edges at the bottom.
8) Starting at the bottom of one leg, sew a 1/4” seam up that leg, through the crotch and down the other leg. Finish with zigzag or serger, or sew seams together close to edge, using a straight stitch.
9) Turn to right side and press seam toward the back. Turn back to the wrong side.
10) It’s easier to sew a narrow tube from the inside, but sewing on the outside makes a neater hem. Therefore, working from the inside, turn up the bottom of each pants leg 1/2” (1/4” if you have already hemmed 1/4” up with a straight stitch). Still with the project turned inside-out, sew hem at 3/8” but sewing on the right side (or just inside the 1/4” if you are using a straight stitch only.)
11) Turn under waist edge 1/4” and press. Turn under again an additional 1/2” and press.
12) Pin hem in place, making sure the crotch seams are still in the direction they were pressed. (This is important.)
13) Starting about 1/2” from the back seam, sew close to first fold for elastic casing, leaving about 1” open between beginning and end, finishing about 1/2” from back seam.
14) Mark elastic at 8 1/2” but do not cut.
15) Attach safety pin to the end of the elastic you measured from. Use safety pin to thread elastic through casing and out the other end.
16) Remove safety pin and match that edge of the elastic to the mark you made when you measured, pulling both ends of elastic out as far as possible, making sure the elastic is not twisted. Keeping the two sections of elastic even, sew close to the mark, backstitching several times. Cut off excess.
17) Adjust elastic back in place in the casing, and starting from the upper edge of the waist, sew down to the casing seam already made, then pivot and sew along the casing to where you started sewing the casing, pivot and sew up off the upper edge of waist. This will make it easier to tell which is the back of the pants until you get the optional “drawstring” bow on and will avoid having to backstitch.
Optional: To make a faux drawstring, cut yarn or string a little longer than you need to tie a bow the size you like. Sew the middle of the string to the front at waist and on top of the elastic casing, backstitching several times. Trim off threads and tie the bow. Trim ends of bow if needed and make a little knot in each.
Note: For doll clothes I recommend using a dry iron and a spray bottle with water or spray sizing, rather than a steam iron. Working on a smaller scale can get your fingers a little too close to the seam.
This pattern is offered for free. If you would happily have paid for it and are willing to do so, please donate what you would have paid to CURE: https://curechildhoodcancer.org/donate/
Revision 1, 7/2/18
This pattern is protected by copyright. Any items made from it may be sold.
No comments:
Post a Comment